Japanese fashion company, GU, recently secured a new lease in a designated landmark building with plans to redesign the interior, according to a report by commercial real estate firm Cushman & Wakefield.
The store’s home will be on the first and second floors of the Manufacturers Trust Company Building at 510 Fifth Ave., where the interior became an official landmark in 2011. The edifice is made of transparent glass and is known for its International Style architecture.
GU, the sister clothing brand to retail chain Uniqlo, opened its U.S. flagship store in SoHo in September. Its additional location in Midtown will replace The North Face retail store that has occupied the two floors since 2016.
As companies expand into Midtown, historic buildings have come to house several types of businesses, including trendy fashion brands. But these moves can create a conflict between preservationists and real estate developers who have their own designs in mind. While New York City is known to be business-friendly, there are conservation groups like Docomomo and the Historic Districts Council who work to preserve architecturally significant properties. But GU’s upcoming move may be another case where advocacy groups struggle to stop the demolition and remodeling of some notable buildings.
GU filed an application with the NYC Landmark Preservation Commission to “install interior signage, LED screens, partitions and fixtures” in the building, according to a public hearing agenda. The Preservation Department hearing, which took place in September, proposed “enhancement” to an original Harry Bertoia sculpture in the interior. Bertoia, an Italian-American artist, was a pioneer of mid-century modern artworks.
The advocacy group, Docomomo, which is short for “documentation and conservation of buildings, sites, and neighborhoods of the modern movement,” disputed GU’s designs. In a recent testimony to the Landmark Preservation Commission, the group said that the interior changes to 510 Fifth Ave. are not in keeping with the building’s designation.
Docomomo is especially concerned about the preservation of the Bertoia sculptures, which were specifically designed to be showcased in the building. GU proposed moving the “cloud” sculpture to a “non-historic location,” a design change that Kyle Johnson, director of the New York Tri-State chapter of Docomomo, opposed.
Other concerns with the remodeling plan include the potential impediment of the building’s transparency. The redesign includes the installation of shelving and merchandising displays that may obscure key parts of the building’s design, according to the testimony by Docomomo.
Historic preservation and development have been at odds in New York City since Penn Station was demolished in 1963. The Landmarks Preservation Committee was founded in 1965 in response to public outcry. Other famous New York buildings lost to development despite the efforts of preservationist organizations include the Savoy Plaza Hotel in 1965, the Singer Building in 1967, and the Astor Theater in 1982.
Kate Reggev, an architect and historian, manages design and construction projects in historic buildings.
“Somehow in New York, everything can become political,” she said. “Fundamentally, the interests of developers and preservationists can be opposed. I’ve seen situations where the two parties are in conflict and when they’ve found a sort of middle ground.”
Although GU’s proposal for 510 Fifth Ave. remains controversial, some organizations like the Historic Districts Council have more moderate suggestions.
“Our response is nuanced,” said Frampton Tolbert, executive director of the Historic Districts Council. “There are things in the proposal that we support. We are designed to be flexible. Our main concern is that we really want the tenant to see this place as an asset and not just something to work around.”
GU’s design proposal will appear before the Landmarks Preservation Commission again on an unspecified date.